Cat Show Champion

· HAPPIEST & HEALTHIEST KITTYS ~ It is always advisable to have at least a two-kitty home. Knowing your furry family members and keeping in mind all of these ways to care for them is the way to keep them the Healthiest and the Happiest!

· Kittys are not pack-animals, though they are social animals. They can be very happy and healthy with their families, their humans and other animals. They like to be petted and many love to cuddle, especially when they learn this from a young age; yet they will let you know when they want pets or cuddles, it is usually for short periods of time. Also, like humans, they need their personal space and their alone time for their emotional health besides their physical health, therefore having a place they can hide is important.

· Kittys create strong bonds, often litters will have “Bonded Pairs” these are siblings that have created a strong bond with each other and these siblings should not be separated. 

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· Kitty biological and instinctual ways are ingrained in them, though when routines are established very young, some mannerisms can be changed, though never completely gone. The healthiest and happiness family Kitty is one where all of their needs are met.

· Kitty needs their high places, this to meet their safety and protective instincts. Therefore, Kitty Trees are highly recommended. They also want their high perch to watch their family members, other pets, and you!

· Kittys are warm weather animals, their fur is to keep them warm and to protect their skin from extreme heat; they like temperatures 80+, so sunny areas for them are necessary. It is not a coincidence that Kittys like cardboard boxes, it is a favorite place because they like to be warm, and cardboard is a nature insulator. For mothers, kittens, seniors and/or stressed Kittys it is especially important to keep them warm, self-warming and calming blankets and heating pads are made especially for them. Your body heat does escape off the top of your head, thus a reason a Kitty may like to sleep on their person’s pillow with them. 

· Kittys need to scratch, this helps with their claws trim, yet this also helps to relieve stress, uses pent-up energy and it’s a way to mark territory rather than to spray. Cardboard and sisal items are the best, carpet items are also good for scratching, when provided with enough of their own scratching things, Kittys will leave the human furniture alone.

· Kittys get bored easily therefore having a companion is the best way to keep them happy and healthy. The healthiest and happiest Kitty will be one that has another Kitty as their companion. Another great distraction from boredom is windows, especially sun-filled, a place for them to watch the world. This is in addition, not a replacement for a companion. 

· A Kitty needs at least 1-2 hours of exercise each day, that is playtime with their humans, their animal companions, and toys. Toys for play time is important, the best toys for Kittys are ones which they can use their natural instincts, they are animals of prey (Mousers) so toys that look sound and act like prey are great. ZOOMIS is a real thing, and this happens when a Kitty has too much extra pent-up energy, frequent zoomies is a sure sign they need more play time. I highly recommend interactive toys, chirping-wind flapping birds or rechargeable free-rolling balls are fantastic.

· These are all the reasons a Kitty should not be left home alone for more than 6 hours.

· When a Kitty’s needs, physically, emotionally, mentally, instinctually are not met, Kittys can experience stress and anxiety which can lead to extreme depression and numerous physical ailments. 

· A Kitty’s tail held high means happiness.

· A Kitty’s twitching tail is a warning sign.

· A Kitty’s tail tucked in close to their body is a sign that they are scared. 

· Kittys should visit their vet annually for physical and vaccinations. 

· Kittys should be vaccinated annually with the FVRCP (Feline Viral Rhinotracheitis, Calicivirus, and Panleukopenia) and FeLV (Feline Leukemia). Rabies is also necessary for both indoor and outdoor Kittys, though this is now offered as a 3-year vaccine. 

· Kittens should receive their first vaccinations and de-worming at 6-8 weeks, the second round at 10-13 weeks and a third round with a rabies vaccination at 14-16 weeks. 

· Spaying and Neutering is advisable for all Kittys that are not going to be purposefully bred. Though this will help population control, it is more important for the Kitty’s health, for this can be a way to help prevent certain cancers and heart disease. For females uterine, ovarian and breast cancers and for males testicular and prostate cancers. This can also create more calm and mellow, less aggressive behaviors.

· Spaying and neutering should be scheduled when a Kitty reaches their teenager stage; (at least 6 months, depending on the breed perhaps a little older) at this time a Kitty can handle the anesthesia for surgery.

· It is recommended to brush Kitty’s teeth 3 times a week, yet most parents do not do this. What is more commonly accepted is to provide your Kitty with Dental Treats and Dry Food to help keep their teeth clean, strong and healthy. 

· Kittens have 26 baby or milk teeth: 12 incisors, 4 canines (fangs), 10 premolars. They will start getting their adult teeth about 6 months old. When their adult canine teeth come in, they are considered a teenager kitty. Adult Kittys have 30 teeth: 12 incisors, 4 canine, 10 premolars, 4 molars.

· Kitty has 244 bones, humans have 206 bones.

· Kittys should have claws clipped every 2 or 3 weeks and have scratching items available at all times.

· Declawing is outlawed in most countries world-wide and many cities throughout the US, not in Indiana YET. It is considered cruel and inhumane.

· Declawing is removing the Kitty’s claw and partial bones in their paws.

· Declawing permanently damages a Kitty’s paw and will affect their walking, jumping, and running.

  · Quality Dry Food is mostly recommended. Dry food for dental care and quality food because it has less fillers and that means less waste in the litter pan. Many Veterinarians recommend Animal Tested rather than Computer Tested. Animal tested means it is an established brand that has years of animal use documented. Computer tested is a newer food which a computer calculates the food’s nutrition and value for documentation. Frequently changing cat food can cause digestive problems resulting in vomiting and diarrhea. Anytime it is necessary to change their food it should be done slowly.

· Kitten food is recommended for nursing mothers and sometimes senior cats for added nutrition, though kitten food protein can be harsh on a senior cat’s kidney so caution must be used. Kittens need to be on kitten food for at least 1 year, even better for 2 years. At 1 year a kitten is about 70% mature, thus kitten food longer will help the kitten’s growth and health. Some Breeds are not to their full adulthood until 3 years old. 

· Free feeding is acceptable unless a cat’s weight calls for a management plan. 

· Using elevated bowls or feeders is highly recommended. This helps with a cat’s digestion, and it keeps their head higher, which is a natural instinct, they watch their surroundings while eating, watching so their food is not stolen in the wild it is survival.

· Where you place cats, food and water can also make a difference. If possible, keep food and water apart from each other. In the wild a cat will drag its food to a quiet secluded place where they can eat protected and alone. You may find if you have multiple cats, they may prefer to eat separately and at different times, so they can eat alone to protect their food and not be distracted. Placing their food away from their water is because in the wild usually the water source is a more open area, not a quiet, secluded hiding place. If a cat continually takes their food and eats in a different place, hint-hint, they are telling you their food bowl is not in a good place.

· Cats do not always drink when they are thirsty, so it is very important to always have water available for them. Besides not drinking well, they will often drink less from a bowl. This is simply because in the wild the water source places where the water is not moving is a place where bacteria and parasites are growing. Their instincts are telling them this, and the water bacteria and parasite can make them sick.

· Veterinarians often advise against using tap water for cats. Municipal treatment processing may add chemicals such as chlorine and fluoride which are not always good for cats.

· Putting ice in cats’ water is a good way to keep the water cool, and putting small cubes of ice with wet food occasionally while they eat is a good way for them to get a little added hydration.

· It is a good idea to check your cat in the real hot months for dehydration. If you gently pull up the skin on the back of their next and it springs back quickly, they are well hydrated. 

· It has been found that plastic bowls, especially those that are not PBA free can cause acne for cats around their face. Yet it is also found that even with PBA free bowls, ceramic and stainless steel bowls, if they are not washed often enough, that can also cause acne and even other digestive issues. 

· Allergies to Cats, is very possibly a thing of the past. Purina has developed a dry cat food, “Purina Pro Plan Live Clear” and Purina One Live Clear”. Every person that I have know to try this food, has had great success.